What I actually wore #0026

Serial #: 0026
Date: 11/02/2009
Weather: forecast 20°
Time Allowed: 5 minutes

This outfit is all about the dress. I fell in love with that particular shade of blue – a dusky cornflower blue – and I have always had a sneaking liking for silk dupioni, as much as it reminds me of the Eighties. I love the complicated ‘double’ bodice created by a plunging V-neckline and a halterneck, and the inverted pleats at the waist. It’s always the unusual cuts that grab my attention. Some people might call that ‘arty’ dressing. 

In the label’s advertising campaign, the model wore the crimson version of this dress with nothing but an enormous chest-sized necklace; in reality I’d be risking a wardrobe malfunction if I did that. I’ve worn it with a silk camisole and a necklace of thickly woven black thread strung with seed pearls and moonstones. I always thought it looked like the product of some remarkably patient indigenous jeweller somewhere, as the weaving is reminiscent of a fishing net. The tiny teardrop pearls I found many years ago at a stall in Camberwell’s Sunday market.

And just in case I felt too dainty parading about in blue silk, I wore my clomping black heels to bring me back to earth.

Items:

Dress: Ammo
Camisole: Diesel
Necklace: a long-gone boutique that was next to City Hatters in Melbourne’s Flinders Street.
Earrings: Camberwell Market
Rings: (sterling silver) Roun, (grey shell, sterling silver) NGV Shop
Watch: Kenneth Cole
Shoes: Zoe Wittner

Forties in the Naughties

Sapphire likes to dress up just as much as I do, if not more, so when I heard she had a Forties-themed party to go to, I wanted to hear all about it.

Tell us about the party, Sapphire. 

I was invited to a 40th birthday party, with a cute Forties theme. I absolutely adore Forties and Fifties style so I was pretty excited – I’ve always loved Katharine Hepburn too.

The Andrews SistersOriginally my two friends and I wanted to go as the Andrews Sisters, and we searched high and low for some place that would loan us an old army outfit for a reasonable price. But alas, the only thing that looked good was $140 a piece – it was authentic, which explains the price. Then the only thing that was at the right price turned out to be “dancers’” costumes in a previous life and, well… just a little to revealing!

So what did you do instead?

I decided to put my own costume together, especially hoping to find pieces that I would wear again. The shopping process took me quite a while, as it was really hard to find things that are actually Forties. It doesn’t seem to be a very popular decade with vintage shops!

Or there just isn’t much of it around unfortunately. And when you do find something, it doesn’t fit!

Yes, and it was August, so a pretty cold time of year. The fur shrug and thick wool cape helped keep me warm. Stockings were also essential, but not just because of the weather – no woman in the Forties would have been seen anywhere without wearing her nylons!

One of the few people at the party who actually lived through the 40s absolutely loved my costume – the ultimate compliment!

Do you have a favourite piece? 

Definitely – the two piece suit! It's actually a Sixties number which I found in Retro Star, but I managed to twist it to look a little more Forties. I love the little cape with the pinky-red lining! It was just a matter of choosing the accessories after that.

Hmm, as for that lining, I think we could even call it puce! Tell me about your accessories.

The turquoise blouse is from Retro Star, as well as the faux pearl earrings. I absolutely adored the dainty navy straw hat, with its trim of little white flowers. It was from Shag and individually, the most expensive item. The fur collar was from Chapel St Bazaar.

And how did you go on the night?

One of the few people at the party who actually lived through the 40s absolutely loved my costume – the ultimate compliment! She was dressed in a heavenly ensemble of pink wool, pin-curled hair and a precious matching pink hat. Unfortunately people then thought we were the Andrews Sisters after all, and as the night wore on the calls for us to get up and sing grew and we had to make a quiet and quick exit! 

Well, I hoped you rolled out the barrels on the night and drank lots of rum and Coca Cola. And on that note… I’ll say my last goodbye… shoo-shoo baby! 

* The backdrop is of Pellegrini’s Espresso Bar on Bourke St in Melbourne.

A Happiness of Hats

In celebration of the glorious Melbourne Cup – the ‘race that stops a nation’ – I bring you four hats. Or, to employ the collective noun I have just created: a happiness of hats.

At A: a velvet 40s toque, complete with two flowers just above each ear. It makes me feel like a mini Minnie Mouse.

At happiness: a 20s style (alas not an original, I fear, as it is in too good condition) sequinned cap trimmed with a black chiffon rose.

…a navy wool hat fluttering with a light blue ostrich feather and ruined net dates from the 1910s.

At of: this, I think, is a 50s pillbox wrapped in silver and white chiffon. It is one of the very first vintage hats I bought for two or three dollars from a local op shop.

At hats: a navy wool peaked hat fluttering with a light blue ostrich feather and ruined net dates from the 1910s. The ostrich neckpiece was made nearly a hundred years later by myself and tickles my neck.

Hmm, a fortuitous turn of phrase. I think I might go have a flutter tomorrow.

Virtuous shopping

This morning, killing time between a doctor’s appointment and brunch at Dino’s Deli in Windsor, I entered the hallowed halls of the Salvo’s, Prahran.

It was like entering Aladdin’s Cave.

I later found out (during the ten minutes it took the salesgirl to ring up my copious purchases) that the new manager had redesigned the layout of the store, with one front window specialising in good quality vintage, and the opposite corner featuring a rack of vintage smalls. She had even brought in some of her own items, collected over the years.

I purchased all of these garments bathed in the warm, virtuous glow that I was helping the needy.

As for me, I had barely time to mutter ‘Good morning’, I was so busy snatching up an armload of vintage printed dresses and tops to try on. I then turned to survey the other corner and immediately saw the crowning glory: a seafoam green, chiffon 50s party dress hanging high on a mannequin. When I went to ask the salesgirl if she could lift it down for me, I caught sight of the above mary-janes on the counter. (I’ll have those too, thanks.)

I guiltily entered the changing room bearing the sign ‘NO MORE THAN 4 ITEMS’, loaded down with about 20 dresses and a basket of shoes and lingerie. At least it was early, with few shoppers about.

My haul:

1. Aforementioned chiffon dress. One man, some kind of show producer, offered to fight me for it, until he heard I practice martial arts, upon which he backed hastily away.
2. Taupe linen 50s Sunday-afternoon-stroll dress. Camellia print in black and olive; cute bow belt.
3. 70s graphic print shift dress. Collar and short sleeves, block print in navy, maroon and fuchsia.
4. Sleeveless shift dress #1 in teal with white lace print, belt missing. All rayon.
5. Sleeveless shift dress #2 printed with Japanese style floral pattern, in blues and gold on white.
6. Open-weave cotton shirt, ¾ sleeves, paisley print in various shades of blue.
7. Short sleeved shirt with Marimekko style print, greens and olives on white open-weave cotton.
8. Pale rose vintage full slip with copious quantities of lace on bodice and hem.
9. Tangerine vintage full slip (tag from Myer still attached!), with pleated chiffon flounces.
10. Half-slip in white, with tiers of heart-shaped lace and ribbons.
11. Two pairs tap pants, one black, the other cobalt blue with white lace trim.
12. Two delicious pairs of shoes (pictured).
13. One pair cream coloured, opera-length lambskin gloves that … er, fit like a glove!
14. One rayon print scarf, featuring watercolour illustrations of national monuments of England, arranged in alphabetical order. (From A, Arundel Castle, Sussex – to Y, York Minster and Bootham Bar.)
15. Last, but not least, the bedspread (also pictured above).

There were three or four dresses that sadly did not fit, or suit; I discover my vintage size is SW or SSW – Small Woman or Small(?) Small Woman, but I have no complaint.

Shopping guilt? What shopping guilt? I purchased all of these garments bathed in the warm, virtuous glow that I was helping the needy.

Cinderella’s dressmaker

Once upon a time, many days ago (actually, two weeks) a very thoughtful friend rang me and read out loud the words on a flyer posted near his studio (and I paraphrase): VINTAGE GARAGE SALE! ANTIQUES! RARITIES! LOVELY LOOT! TWO DAYS ONLY!

I was so excited when I wrote down the details I could hardly make out the words later, but I deciphered enough so that I and two friends made it down there on Saturday.

We discovered that the fashion designer Karen Merkel was holding the sale. You might think I would be instantly transported into a fantasy dress-up land, but I did not purchase any clothing.

However, I did pounce on a trove of sumptuous fabrics and embroidered trims that are inspiring enough to weave a fairy-tale with, and live happily ever after. All I need is some glass slippers.